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WaterWorker HT-2B Water Worker Vertical Pre-Charged Well Tank, 20 Gal, 3/4 In Mnpt, 100 Psi, Steel, 2-Gallon
From the Manufacturer
The WaterWorker pre-charged tanks utilize a butyl composite diaphragm, which flexes up and down based on water level and air pressure, as the pump fills the tank with water the air above the diaphragm is compressed, increasing the pressure in the tank until the pump cut-off pressure is reached. When water is drawn from the tank, the pressure inside the tank decreases until the pressure switch starts the pump. The amount of usable water for every pump cycles is called drawdown. The greater drawn-down capacity you select, the less your pump cycles saving energy, money, and extending your pump life. Advantages over galvanized well tanks: Pre-charged tanks do not have water-logging problems like the galvanized tanks. The air and water are totally separated using a diaphragm. No external air controls needed. Pre-charged tanks have a much larger draw-down for the same physical size. Larger draw down reduces pump cycles and pump wear, i.e. at 30/50 PSIG range three times the draw-down for pre-charged tanks of the same physical size. Pre-charged Tanks completely empty during each pump cycle. Pre-charged Tanks are much smaller and easier to handle that galvanized well tanks. Pre-charged tanks with a 30/50 Pressure Switch would be one-third the size of a galvanized tank with the same drawdown. Deep Well Jet Pumps could use either a vertical tank or a horizontal tank, depending on space requirements and sizing. Submersible Pump applications would usually use vertical tanks, again based on proper sizing. Shallow Well Jet Pumps could use vertical or horizontal tanks, based on proper sizing. The rule of thumb in sizing is to count the number of fixtures in the home, i.e. sinks, showers, toilets, dishwasher, faucets, washing machines, outside faucets, etc. and multiply it by 3. Example: a house with 11 fixtures x 3 would be 33-Gallon tank. We would suggest our 44-Gallon tank, which is the next larger sized tank.
MD
July 29, 2025
Does exactly what it's supposed to do.
Angel
July 14, 2025
I used this in an RV / Coach application, if that's not you please disregard...This thing is great ! This is one of the best things I have done, but be aware there are some limitations.Good:- I can turn the pump off and there is enough water stored to flush, wash hands, rinse a plate or wash some fruit...- My pump previously needed to cycle to get a "good" flush. its now ready to go... ( every one wins ! )- I can't find a surge tank for my hot water heater on the coach, so i'm assuming this is helping all around- You can install this anywhere on the high pressure side ( it helps to be near the pump, but there may be a spot hiding some place int he coach )- Crazy easy to install ! I used 1 1/2 inch "T" sharkbite connector, a length of 1/2 pex, a sharkbite 1/2 to 3/4 adapter and a 3/4 braided line. all said and done at the big orange box store I was out about forty bucks. ( cut pipe any where AFTER your pump put parts in place. )note:- They do make a vibration resistant soft pipe dope. I figured this was for the RV so it seemed like the right application.- If your pipes are tight you will need to make two cuts to remove the material for your "T"Bad, ( well not really bad, just be aware )-This is a 2 gallon tank, it does not mean your getting two gallons out of this tank... ( I did not expect to, but there will be some one... )-The pump would normally cycle/purr for about 5 seconds prior to installing this. Now near the top end of the pressure ( adding water to this tank ) it now has a constant hum for 30+ seconds... not really a bad its just what it takes for my pump to fill this with 35#'s of pressure.-Not really a bad but if your boondocking ( dry camping ) and you normally flush to get that little bit of toilet water down so it does not go every where as you drive, it now means you have about a gallon... ( I turn on the sink to drain it, then flush, but your loosing a precious resource )OtherTo strap this down I went with the 4 stainless steel hose clamps from the big orange box store (they did not have large enough ones to fit and online they were 20.00, these were .99 cents X4.) I drilled two holes and screwed them to the floor then screwed them together. seems to work wellthe only thing I'm going to change is adding some U brackets around the pex line, i'm worried about it moving around. for a 1.50 i get 10 brackets...Bottom lineHappy I did it... you will be also.
Ramrod
July 1, 2025
This water tank is just right for our 1/2 hp water pump. It turns the pump off after every use as soon as it reaches the set pressure. We originally had problem with the cut off, but learned that it was not the fault of the pump nor the tank, but the small air leak that escaped us when installing it. It works very well and saves us many steps on the one acre plot we own, to shut it off manually. I would highly recommended it, for the use similar to ours. Make sure no air leaks escape you.
Barry Timm
April 25, 2025
This tank was installed less than 2 months ago. Worked great. But then I noticed brown water and quickly saw it was coming from the brand new Waterworker tank I'd installed less than 2 months ago! It's completely gunked up with RUST inside the tank...and has started to fill the RV's water lines with rusty gunk. Am removing the tank and will junk it.Do NOT buy this piece of junk!
Allison Kolb
April 10, 2025
The standard RV has a water pump and a unpressurized 40 gallon tank. Every time you turn on the faucet or flush the toilet the pump must turn on. If you turn off the pump switch after the pump has run there is almost no water pressure left in the lines to push out any water.Installing this accumulator tank anywhere on the cold water piping system will allow the pump to pressure up the system and turn off. The air bladder in this tank will push back on the water, maintaining pressure in the system. Depending on the pump set point, I get about 1/3rd of a gallon before the pump turned back on. With the pump switch off, I get a full gallon before the system completely loses pressure.There are a couple tradeoffs. When the pump does turn back on it is just as loud and now runs for about 15-20 seconds. The pump is now pumping against a load and sounds like it works harder and draws more amps. I have not calculated if the overall electricity is less since the pumps runs less often. Everything I can find talks about how less start/stops is better for the pump, but don’t address running loaded vs. unloaded.You will probably use water much faster. If you don't close the faucet completely the leak will cause you to lose much more water before you hear the pump, it's worse if you have the pump switch off. You will lose a full gallon. You should check that there are no leaks in the system and all the faucets have tight shutoff.I installed the tank in a Tee after the water pump. Anywhere in the system will work the same as long as it's on the cold water line. On the hot side would back flow hot water to the cold and not be good for the air bladder. Note: PEX fittings can be used, but I found the grey PEX used in my older RV had a slightly different diameter and was not a good fit with the new fittings. I got lucky and didn't have leaks, but please check the type of pipe you have and buy the proper fittings.
ainadude
February 18, 2025
Fit as it should and seems to be working fine after more than a year. Great value.
Placeholder
February 14, 2025
Small enough to fit in tight spaces!
Scott
January 12, 2025
I replaced my trailer's original pump with the . The pump says it has the bypass and doesn't need an accumulator. When we boondock, our low-flow faucets cause the pump to rapid-cycle, making the lights flicker and make a hammering sound. With this accumulator, all my problems are gone! Smooth cycling of the pump, and TONS of reserve water without running the pump. It seems like a gallon of water flows without running the pump – enough to flush and wash hands.
Razz
November 20, 2024
Does with it claims.
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